Right and wrong of "ecological fabric" bamboo fiber
Date of Release:
2016-05-06 00:00
Source:
Right and wrong of "ecological fabric" bamboo fiber
发布时间:
2016-05-06 00:00
来源:
Tight and soft fabric clothing has become popular in the market. Viridis Luxe, an environment-friendly brand, attracts not only the support of Uma Thurman and Laura Dern, but also the gorgeous and comfortable clothing itself.
In fact, bamboo fiber has become the most successful case of "ecological fabrics" such as soybean, corn, milk, kelp and recycled plastic materials. Bamboo fiber products have related products in Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Target stores, Ermenegildo Zegna, Rag&Bone, Ralph Lauren and other brands. Bamboo fiber is widely used by some brands focusing on environmental protection. Because bamboo fiber is very soft, it is often used with luxurious silk and cashmere.
The discovery and application of bamboo fiber is very logical: similar to natural hemp fiber, the crops grow very fast without large-scale irrigation, pesticide spraying and fertilizer needed for cotton crops. It is generally used in the development of sportswear as a "biodegradable" and plant antibacterial property. Aarti Doshi, manager of Doshi Group, a bamboo fiber fabric distribution company headquartered in Mumbai, India, said: "Compared with cotton fiber, people now prefer bamboo fiber."
But looking at the essence through the phenomenon, I found that bamboo fiber is not as "ecological" and "sustainable" as it seems. The bamboo fiber used in textiles needs a relatively complex process. In order to weave fabrics, bamboo fibers need to be chopped and dissolved in toxic solvents. The process of recycling wood chips into viscose rayon is the same. In fact, technically speaking, bamboo fiber is man-made fiber.
The Federal Trade Commission of the United States sued four small bamboo fiber garment manufacturers in August, claiming that they had falsified trademarks and other issues. According to the 1958 Textile Fiber Product Identification Act, these companies adopted slogans such as "natural", "degradable" and "antibacterial". However, the Federal Trade Commission believes that bamboo fiber is not natural because its development has gone through a chemical process. The agency also said that the production process of plant fiber cannot retain its biodegradation and antibacterial properties.
In an announcement entitled "Have you been confused by bamboo fiber?", the Federal Trade Commission of the United States said that the production of bamboo fiber "uses toxic chemicals and releases pollutants into the air."
Four cases of the Federal Trade Commission have been nearly settled, and no punishment has been imposed, but the fabric is required to have the mark of viscose rayon and cannot be marked with biodegradability and antibacterial properties.
Of course, bamboo fiber is more natural than pure rayon. But Salvatore Giardina, a designer and associate professor of textile development and marketing at the Institute of Fashion Technology, said that he now uses linen, linen and other fabrics. A few years ago, when a manufacturer told him that bamboo fiber was actually viscose fiber, he stopped using bamboo fiber. He said: "The products I designed are high-end products, and I can't label them with 100% viscose."
Jon? Bonnie Siefers, the designer and founder of no, is one of the garment manufacturers sued by the Federal Trade Commission. She said that she has stopped selling bamboo fiber with biodegradable and antibacterial properties. She is also studying how to make polyester like fabrics with corn sugar as a forgiveness instead of petroleum extracts.
However, it can be quickly found on the Internet that many garment manufacturers still sell bamboo fibers in the market in the name of ecological friendliness. Ms. Ewing pointed out that these may not be malicious. Most bamboo grows in China, and American designers cannot monitor Chinese suppliers.
Of course, bamboo fiber can be used as industrial and home textiles such as furniture and flooring.
There are other disputes about bamboo fiber. Professor Giardina of FIT said that he found that bamboo fiber is unstable and may stretch and deform in a humid environment. According to the spokesman of Uniform Knitters Ltd., a garment manufacturer in Hong Kong, they do not use bamboo fiber because of color difference and shrinkage.
Hala Bahmet, the designer of Viridis Luxe, said that bamboo fiber is not very durable, and after several times of cleaning, some small holes will appear. These small holes are caused by the broken fiber. She also said that the brand's clothing is beautiful, light and smooth, but not durable. But now organic cotton has been added to improve the durability. On the label, they marked "bamboo viscose fiber". She has successfully blended bamboo fiber with hemp fiber and cashmere to produce superior fabrics.
Ms. Bahmet said that she hoped that the Federal Trade Commission of the United States could pay more attention to the research on bamboo fiber, because it did not involve the application of important food sources such as corn to the production of fabrics. She is optimistic that the actions of the Federal Trade Commission of the United States will encourage scientists to study the production methods of real ecological bamboo fiber.
She said: "As a fiber, bamboo is still in its infancy. It has only been more than 10 years. There is still a long way to go in the future."
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